Question for real pilots

[AKIron]

In my experience... vjoy is a Trainwreck.  I know at least 2 who love it, and their controls are typically a trainwreck.  I'm sure results vary, but mine were as stated.

Just sayin

I currently don't use it for anything but like to be familiar with options.

Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler. -- Albert E.

[Dadtallica]

The only plane I get bounce in that is noticeable is the P47. My AH scaling for my X52 is set to a slight curve in the first five and then ramping up a bit fatter between the rest to the end. I also have deadzones built in from MS game controller software.

Ok now I wanna see those axis scaling pictures from everyone to see what you’re all doing. Let’s go…

[AKIron]

A curve that covers a full range will be more inclined to induce bouncing when pulling Gs because your stick is in the outer range where a small input returns a greater output compared to a full range linear response. Be aware.

[FLS]

Dose anyone understand the scaling setup in AH and can they explain how it really works?

...

Scaling adjusts the amount of input for a portion of stick travel.

A longer stick has less input for an inch of travel than a short stick so it's more precise.

Stick scaling is simply making the stick virtually longer for part of it's travel so it's more precise where you need it, near the critical AOA. It works when you're trimmed for your speed.

If you have a stick extension you don't need to scale. Scaling is a solution to short gaming sticks.

[Skyyr]

Ok now I wanna see those axis scaling pictures from everyone to see what you’re all doing. Let’s go…

https://youtu.be/0vYoQApXRTM

[Animl-AW]

Scaling adjusts the amount of input for a portion of stick travel.

A longer stick has less input for an inch of travel than a short stick so it's more precise.

Stick scaling is simply making the stick virtually longer for part of it's travel so it's more precise where you need it, near the critical AOA. It works when you're trimmed for your speed.

If you have a stick extension you don't need to scale. Scaling is a solution to short gaming sticks.

So, if one has a short stick, and needs scaling, would it be  lower straight level line across, not slopes or curves? Example instead of all at 100% something like all at 75%?

If so, could settings not be done and just lower sensitivity in the hotas software?

[Skyyr]

So, if one has a short stick, and needs scaling, would it be  lower straight level line across, not slopes or curves? Example instead of all at 100% something like all at 75%?

If so, could settings not be done and just lower sensitivity in the hotas software?

No, it doesn't work like that. You would have a massive spike from 75% to 100% at the end of your travel.

You have to manually adjust the curves so they are incremental up to 100%, otherwise it spikes.

[Eagler]

https://youtu.be/0vYoQApXRTM

Same for my warthog

Eagler

[Animl-AW]

No, it doesn't work like that. You would have a massive spike from 75% to 100% at the end of your travel.

You have to manually adjust the curves so they are incremental up to 100%, otherwise it spikes.

Ok that's the way I understood it, I thought maybe there was something I missed. I've experimented with countless different settings. There are no bad questions.

I never used scaling before, I experimented with it, but usually didn't use it. This stick has a mind of it's own, sometimes it will stop working until I pull the USB and reboot it. It's got issues. What happens when ya let something sit for 14 yrs.

I'm going to go back to 1:1 and manual trim when I get back up and running, see what happens.

New stick with an extension and no combat trim seems to be the fix.

[Drano]

There's other factors that cause bounce that curves won't fix. On an older analog stick with pots, if they're dirty your inputs won't be smooth. I used to have it happen wth my CH stick when the little spade connectors would work loose. Heck I've even had that happen on the gunfighter. Gotta watch out for the wire connectors on the PBC working loose. I've had it happen. The gimbal is moving around all the time so gotta figure that can happen over time. The tiny wires can break too. Even the contactless sensors can have issues of there's any pieces of metal stuck on the magnet. I've heard that RF interference from a router set too close can mess them up.

Pretty much anything that's screwing up the signal from your hand movement to the PCB on the stick will affect what's being sent to the PC and your game. So it could be you're just ham handing it or might be something like that.

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

[FLS]

So, if one has a short stick, and needs scaling, would it be  lower straight level line across, not slopes or curves? Example instead of all at 100% something like all at 75%?

If so, could settings not be done and just lower sensitivity in the hotas software?

When you set scaling at the advanced tab you see exactly what it does when you compare the raw and scaled bars.

If you over-control when you're trying to aim try using default scaling on pitch and rudder. 

[Professor_Fate]

https://youtu.be/0vYoQApXRTM

Thanks ‘skyr’, I appreciate your videos because I learn a lot.  Also btw I’m beginning to notice a pattern how ‘the dammed’ 190D drivers try to maintain energy in a turn and burn (if you can get’em there). Though my biggest problem right now is spatial awareness which I believe to be the key to success, but I’m working on that. 

Im not a bloody flyer, I’m a sailor.

[AKIron]

There's other factors that cause bounce that curves won't fix. On an older analog stick with pots, if they're dirty your inputs won't be smooth. I used to have it happen wth my CH stick when the little spade connectors would work loose. Heck I've even had that happen on the gunfighter. Gotta watch out for the wire connectors on the PBC working loose. I've had it happen. The gimbal is moving around all the time so gotta figure that can happen over time. The tiny wires can break too. Even the contactless sensors can have issues of there's any pieces of metal stuck on the magnet. I've heard that RF interference from a router set too close can mess them up.

Pretty much anything that's screwing up the signal from your hand movement to the PCB on the stick will affect what's being sent to the PC and your game. So it could be you're just ham handing it or might be something like that.

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

That's where using vjoy can help. I don't recall who did one but I believe there is a Joystick Gremlin profile that averages your inputs and essentially drops the spikes. I used it on my 25 year old ch pro pedals and it worked well. I have new pedals now.

<added>You might think this would induce a delayed response, and maybe it does, but it's too short to notice.

[AKIron]

Any sim that allows zooming the view on an axis can cause disorientation if there is jitter or spiking on that axis. More than a little noticeable.

Don't know if this is the one I used but it appears to do the same:

https://www.reddit.com/r/hotas/comments/st26id/fixing_spikingghostingnoisyfluctuating_axis/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button

The download link for the plugin is "this plugin".

[JimmyD3]

Interesting AKIron, I have a set of CH pedals that are pretty erratic. Is there any special technique to install and set up?